The island’s movie theater
We saw a movie last week, the last film the island showed this season. We went primarily to visit Heybeliada’s only movie theater, and because… Read More »The island’s movie theater
Brian Felsen
Nosehair
9/27/98 Last week we went to the mainland to meet a friend of Elif’s from high school named Nasl?. Her name means “someone who plays… Read More »Nosehair
Inside a Turkish Synagogue
Our island has a Greek monastery and a mosque, both of which I’ve seen, but the synagogue’s always been closed whenever I’ve passed. That’s not… Read More »Inside a Turkish Synagogue
Petting the Hittite sites
The next morning (Thursday the 27th), we saw Amasya, which had Ottoman houses like Safranbolu but fewer of them. There were incredibly large Pontiac rock… Read More »Petting the Hittite sites
In the terrorists’ footsteps
It was late in the day by the time we got to Erzurum, and it felt as if we had left Kurdistan and entered Saudi… Read More »In the terrorists’ footsteps
Checkpoints in Kurdistan
After staying up with our new Israeli friends, we discovered back in the hotel at 12:30AM that there was no water at all; when we… Read More »Checkpoints in Kurdistan
Ancient Armenia under military escort
Four hours later, at 5AM (on Monday the 24th), Dilek is so hot, sleepless, and livid that Co? would treat us this way that she… Read More »Ancient Armenia under military escort
The best little whorehouse in Savsat
On Sunday the 23rd, Co? decided he wanted to go to Ardanuç, a small town of five thousand people where a friend of his once… Read More »The best little whorehouse in Savsat
The Laz, and stuck up in a tree
On Saturday the 22nd, we decided to forego breakfast at the good old Turist Hotel, which would have been included had the cook shown up;… Read More »The Laz, and stuck up in a tree
An army sendoff in Rize
We drove to Rize to stay the night, and Rize is very religious, with covered women and men with skullcaps. Since the Rough Guide said… Read More »An army sendoff in Rize